EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching

Taylor Reed is a climber and coach who has worked with high-level athletes – both competitive and outdoor climbers – for many years. He’s the vice president of the International Rock Climbing Research Association and also runs The Beta Angel Project, which takes climbing-specific research and synthesizes it with ideas and experience in order to find evidence-informed methods that can help us all become better coaches and climbers. In this episode, we discuss how Taylor assesses movement, how he teaches it, and what role research plays in his overall coaching.   Find Taylor online at: The Beta Angel Project International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) _________________________ 🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER Research mentioned in the episode: Austrian Research Paper and Write Up Co-Contraction Paper and Write Up Multi-Edge Decision-Making / Behavioral Change Paper You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources: Why “Technique” May Not Be The Answer to Better Climbing EXPERT | Rob Gray | The Gap Between Researchers and Coaches (Part 1) EXPERT | Rob Gray | How We Learn to Move and Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2) BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing BREAKING BETA | Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized? BREAKING BETA | Better Call Paul | IRCRA Test Battery Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel | The Coach/Climber Dynamic _________________________ 🔌SUPPORT + CONNECT Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3. Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple. Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers. Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it. _________________________ The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website. _________________________ 📚CHAPTERS (0:00) Intro (2:40) How Much Does Research Inform Taylor’s Coaching? (3:48) ANNOTATION: Evidence-Based vs. Evidence-Informed (10:15) What Aspects of Research Are Most Applicable? (12:53) Looking Outside of Climbing Research (13:50) ANNOTATION: Reinvestment Theory (15:37) Speed Climbing (19:53) Information Processing vs. Ecological Dynamics for Climbing (30:32) Thematic Movement Learning (47:40) Movement Assessment (1:02:48) Teaching Movement (1:05:22) ANNOTATION: Differential Learning (1:08:19) ANNOTATION: Attractor Valleys (1:16:03) How Much Does the Athlete Need to Know? (1:20:58) ANNOTATION: Leading By Example (1:22:48) Do Comp Style Climbs Translate to Outdoors? (1:27:38) What Is Still Missing From the Research? (1:32:55) Wrap Up (1:35:06) Theme